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It’s been almost a year, and I’m still finding pink powder in my camera bag.
That’s the thing about Holi—it doesn’t end when the drums stop. The colors stay with you. In your memories. In your photographs. In the way you think about celebration, community, and surrender.
Last March, I wrote about my first Holi in Mathura—how it caught me off guard, how it rearranged something in my soul, how I flew 8,000 miles for photographs and found something I couldn’t have prepared for.
This year, I’m going back.
And this time, I’m not stopping at India.
Two Countries, Two Skies of Pink
Here’s what most travelers don’t realize: Holi is not the same everywhere.
In India, Holi is Krishna’s festival—celebrated with particular intensity in the Braj region where the god who stole butter grew up. The drums thunder from temple courtyards. The streets run with colored water. The air itself seems to glow pink, so thick with gulal powder that you taste it for days.
In Nepal, it’s called Fagu Purnima—named after the Nepali month of Falgun and the full moon (Purnima) that marks its arrival. The colors are the same, but the traditions, timing, and energy are beautifully different. The celebration centers on ancient temple squares. Chariots roll through narrow streets. The whole thing feels older, more ceremonial, yet somehow more intimate.
By experiencing both, you get two distinct windows into the same celebration. Two cultures. Two perspectives. Two mornings when the sky turns pink.
Holi 2026 Dates:
| Location | Main Celebration |
|---|---|
| India (nationwide) | March 4, 2026 |
| Nepal (Kathmandu, hills) | March 2, 2026 |
| Nepal (Terai region) | March 3, 2026 |
This means you can celebrate Holi in Nepal on March 2, travel to India, and celebrate it again on March 4. Two festivals. One trip. Countless memories.
Nepal’s Fagu Purnima: Where Ancient Temples Turn Rainbow
I’ll admit: I didn’t know about Nepal’s Holi until I started planning this return trip. Now I can’t imagine skipping it.
In Kathmandu, the celebrations center on Basantapur Durbar Square, where tiered temples rise like wedding cakes against the mountain sky. Days before the festival, a ceremonial pole called the Chir is erected—decorated with colorful flags that flutter in the breeze, counting down to the explosion of color.
What makes Nepal’s Holi unique:
The Chir Tradition: Days before the festival, Kathmandu’s Durbar Square transforms. The pole goes up, and with it, the city’s energy shifts. People gather to watch, to prepare, to anticipate. It’s a visual countdown that builds anticipation in a way India’s sudden explosion doesn’t.
Chariot Processions: Unlike India’s street-level chaos, Nepal’s celebration includes formal processions. Chariots carrying Kumari (the living goddess), Ganesh, and Bhairav are pulled through the old city, connecting the color-throwing to something ancient and sacred.
The Two-Day Split: Nepal celebrates on different days depending on region. The hills—including Kathmandu Valley—celebrate on March 2. The Terai (plains near India) celebrate on March 3. This means the country effectively has two Holis, and you could theoretically experience both.
Where to Stay in Kathmandu
| Area | Vibe | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Thamel | Tourist hub, lively | First-timers, easy logistics |
| Basantapur | Heart of celebrations | Maximum immersion |
| Patan | Less crowded, authentic | Quieter experience |
Nepal Holi Tips
- Be at Basantapur Durbar Square by 8 AM—the celebration starts early
- Wear shoes you can run in; Kathmandu’s narrow streets get packed
- The day before Fagu Purnima, watch the Chir being erected—it’s a ceremony in itself
- Accept invitations to homes for sweets; Nepali hospitality is legendary
India’s Braj Region: Where Krishna Still Dances
After Nepal’s ceremonial warmth, India’s Holi feels more intense. More chaotic. More… Krishna.
The Braj region—Mathura, Vrindavan, Barsana, Nandgaon—is where Holi becomes something else entirely. This is Lord Krishna’s homeland, and the celebrations here carry the weight of mythology, devotion, and centuries of tradition.
I remember my first morning in Mathura last year. I had read about Holi. I had seen photographs. Nothing prepared me for the reality.
The drums started before dawn—a deep, rhythmic thunder that seemed to come from everywhere at once. I stepped outside my guesthouse at 6 AM, and the streets were already alive. Children with water guns. Men carrying bags of gulal. Women in white saris laughing on balconies.
And then the first handful of pink powder hit my chest.
What Last Year Taught Me About Surrender
By 9 AM, I was standing in the courtyard of Dwarkadhish Temple, surrounded by a sea of equally colorful strangers. My white kurta had become a canvas of pink and green and yellow. My hair was matted with powder. I couldn’t remember what my own face looked like.
An old woman appeared beside me. She must have been seventy, her face weathered by decades of Indian summers, her eyes bright with mischief. Without a word, she dipped her hand into a bag of saffron powder and smeared it across my forehead.
“Bura na mano,” she said, her voice cutting through the drums and laughter. “Holi hai.”
Don’t take offense. It’s Holi.
Then she laughed—a sound like temple bells—and disappeared into the crowd before I could respond.
That moment taught me something: Holi isn’t something you watch. It’s something you surrender to. The more you resist, the more you get painted. The more you open your arms, the more you become part of something larger than yourself.
The Holi Timeline in Braj
Holi in this region isn’t one day—it’s a week-long series of celebrations, each with its own character:
| Date | Location | Celebration |
|---|---|---|
| Feb 27 | Barsana | Lathmar Holi - Women beat men with sticks |
| Feb 28 | Nandgaon | Lathmar Holi continues |
| Mar 1 | Vrindavan | Widows’ Holi - Unique celebration at Gopinath Temple |
| Mar 2 | Vrindavan | Phoolon wali Holi - Flowers instead of powder |
| Mar 3 (evening) | Everywhere | Holika Dahan - Bonfires |
| Mar 4 | Everywhere | Main Holi - The color explosion |
Lathmar Holi: The Festival I Missed Last Year
Last year, I arrived too late for Lathmar Holi—the unique celebration in Barsana where women playfully beat men with bamboo sticks. The tradition reenacts Krishna’s visits to tease the women of Barsana (Radha’s village) and their retaliation.
I’ve heard stories: men from Nandgaon arriving with shields, women lining the streets armed with lathis, the crowd erupting as the first blow lands. It sounds chaotic, joyful, unlike anything else on Earth.
This year, I’ll be there.
Where to Stay in Braj
| Town | Experience | Booking Window |
|---|---|---|
| Mathura | Spiritual, intense | Book by mid-January |
| Vrindavan | Temple-centered, devotional | Book by early January |
| Barsana | Lathmar Holi focus | Very limited—book ASAP |
| Delhi (base) | Day trips to all locations | Flexible |
Pro tip: Accommodation in the Braj towns is limited and fills up months in advance. Many travelers stay in Delhi and take early trains to the celebration sites.
The Complete 12-Day Itinerary
Here’s how to experience both Nepal and India’s Holi in one trip:
| Day | Location | Activity |
|---|---|---|
| Feb 25 | Arrive Kathmandu | Acclimatize, explore Thamel |
| Feb 26 | Kathmandu | Watch Chir ceremony at Durbar Square |
| Feb 27 | Kathmandu | Pre-Fagu Purnima preparations |
| Feb 28 | Kathmandu | Fagu Purnima celebration |
| Mar 1 | Travel to Delhi | Fly KTM → DEL |
| Mar 2 | Delhi → Mathura | Train to Mathura, evening exploration |
| Mar 3 | Barsana | Lathmar Holi (day), Holika Dahan (night) |
| Mar 4 | Mathura/Vrindavan | Main Holi celebration |
| Mar 5 | Vrindavan | Morning aarti, recovery |
| Mar 6 | Return to Delhi | Departure or continue exploring |
Practical Planning Guide
What to Pack
Essential:
- White clothes — Kurtas are cheap and perfect; buy them locally
- Waterproof phone case — Colors + water = destroyed electronics
- Sunglasses — Protects eyes from powder; keeps you in the action longer
- Coconut oil — Apply to skin and hair before heading out; makes color easier to wash off
- Old towel — Your hotel will thank you
Nice to have:
- Waterproof camera or GoPro
- Hat or bandana for your hair
- Change of clothes for after (you won’t want to walk back covered in powder)
What to Expect
Physical intensity: You will be grabbed, hugged, tackled, and painted. Personal space does not exist during Holi. If you’re uncomfortable with physical contact from strangers, this might not be the festival for you.
Emotional intensity: Strangers will treat you like family. Within minutes, you’ll have more “relatives” than you can count. It can be overwhelming if you’re not prepared.
Mess: You will not be clean. Your clothes will be ruined. The color will stay in your ears for days. Accept it.
Joy: You will experience something unlike anything else on Earth.
Safety Notes
- Stay in groups, especially in crowded areas
- Keep valuables in your hotel safe
- The colored powder is generally safe, but avoid getting it in your eyes
- Drink bottled water only
- Book accommodations early—very early
The Colors That Stay
Last year, I wrote about finding pink powder in my camera bag months after returning home. Those traces were annoying, yes—but they were also something else.
They were proof that I had been there. That I had surrendered. That I had let a festival cover me in color and change me in ways I’m still understanding.
This year, I’m not just going back to India. I’m expanding the journey to include Nepal—two countries, two traditions, two mornings when the sky turns pink.
If you’ve been thinking about experiencing Holi, 2026 is your year. The dates are set. The routes are clear. The colors are waiting.
Key Dates for Holi 2026:
- Nepal (Kathmandu): March 2
- Nepal (Terai): March 3
- India (nationwide): March 4
- Lathmar Holi (Barsana): February 27
Book accommodations by mid-January at the latest. The best guesthouses fill up months in advance.
All you have to do is show up—and be willing to get covered in joy.
Bura na mano. Holi hai.
Are you planning to experience Holi in 2026? I’d love to hear where you’re headed—and if you have questions about the Nepal-India route, drop them in the comments. I’ll be updating this guide as my own plans solidify.
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